Episode 9: Building the TotalBoat Sport Dory

Louis is back and he’s ready to get to work! With our jig complete, it’s time to start building the TotalBoat Sport Dory.  Lou starts by planing down the edge of the first layer of cedar bottom.  Using an electric plane and then a block plane, Lou continues the progressive bevel from the mold up through the first layer of bottom.  He then quickly touches up the sharp edge with a rabbit plane.

Next, Lou shows us how he divides up the spacing for the boat’s frames.  Each frame will be just over 9 inches apart.  Once he has established where each frame will go, Lou sets up another jig that will guide the router bit to cut slots in the mold and bottom layer to accept the poly frames.
Follow along as Lou gets closer to planking and the dory starts looking more like a boat than a bunch of wood waiting for direction. Catch up on all of the past 8 episodes with our playlist. Enjoy!

18 responses to “Episode 9: Building the TotalBoat Sport Dory

  1. Lou,
    The frames appear to be polyurethane, will glue or epoxy adhere to poly? In my experience, it will not. Am I missing something?
    By the way, I really enjoy your videos and have learned a lot!
    Thanks you
    Terence

  2. Thanks Lou,
    Another great series.
    Always in need of a decent pencil, I gotta get me some of those “Tips” jobs. Can you steer me in the right direction?
    Thank you.
    Rob

    1. Ken his marking gauge is made from any straight piece of wood. You cut a notch into one edge deep and long enough to span the part of the wood that sticks above the surface that you are referencing. What you are trying to do is find where that reference surface is located on the other side of all the wood that sticks up.

    1. Hi Sam,
      I was referring specifically to Lou’s blue “Tips From A Shipwright” carpenter’s pencil. Carpenter’s pencils with solid non crumbling lead and easily trimable, real wood shafts are getting harder to find at lumber yards and home centers. The “Tips” pencil looks like a good one, and the logo ain’t bad either.
      Rob

  3. As always Lou, you are just super to watch.
    One comment – explain that the use of the polyethylene “frames” is so that the epoxy used to glue down the carbon fiber DOES NOT STICK TO THE POLYETHYLENE,

    I used that trick when I built my Susquehanna River Tunnel boat.

  4. As a carpenter I am amazed at how many people do not know how to sharpen a carpenter’s pencil or how important it is to have one that is sharpened correctly. Love these videos – can’t wait for episode 10.

  5. Very good videos! Boatbilding is my hobby. At nau in avtobox bilding multykhiils boat from two lays wood planks 30x5mm2. Good bay. May english very bad.

  6. Lou, Ive watched mostly all of your listings on you tube ,I’m very familiar with power and hand tools, but I am new to boat building, Im working on a 1962 -[PM-38] 14FT. stepped hull boat, prints came from DIY wooden boats.com , Lou ,I personally ,think your application techniques are very smart , they make sense to me ,although, I have questions that I have acquired , about sealing this boat, what would be the best and strongest way , at the chines, transom, and bow stem, do you think a thickened epoxy and screws are sufficient, before putting a layer of glass on it. I watched you use a brown colored compound on the work skiff ,just don’t know what it is ,and if it would be rite for this boat, I know you are probably very busy ,and mite not be able to quickly review this boat print , so in any event my main objective was to say I appreciate and respect what you are doing, and I mention that to Jamestown every time I place an order, I hope you do this for a very long time because you absolutely know how to teach, May the boat gods bless you and watch over you infinitely. –Frank from Chicago Il

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