Envy 2-Part Varnish: A Durable Coating for your Brightwork


Keeping your brightwork looking great is a chore that requires constant upkeep. With varnishes, most people expect to apply seasonal coats to keep the varnish looking good and doing the work of protecting your wood from sun, salt and general abuse.  But if you have never used a 2-Part varnish on your brightwork, then we have a great solution that requires less work while offering more protection for your wood surfaces.

TotalBoat Envy 2 Part clear varnish system brings a truly modern approach to brightwork. Its high-solids formula features superior UV, abrasion, and chemical resistance for an ultra clear, flexible finish that lasts 5 times longer than conventional varnishes – and this equals less maintenance and more time on the water. And who doesn’t want that?

With exceptional self-leveling properties and little or no sanding between coats, you will notice professional results whether you apply by spray, brush, or roller. Envy works great on bare wood, as well as over other 2-part varnishes. Available in High Gloss and Satin, it’s a great solution for high traffic areas, like the seats on this sailboat – or perhaps on your varnished front door, which most likely gets plenty of use. Running boards, coamings and more – all of them are begging for more time in use and less time being maintained. Check out Envy!


3 responses to “Envy 2-Part Varnish: A Durable Coating for your Brightwork

  1. I used Interthane two part varnish some years ago. It goes on fine, produces a very hard finish that looks great, resists sun and scratches – all as claimed here.

    But, when it gets hit (e.g. by a winch handle) it gets small cracks all the way down to the wood which then gets black from the salt water that leaks in.

    Removing it proved to require a lot more sanding and sandpaper than conventional varnish, also.

    Would like to see some tests of this before I try this.


  2. Dave has a point. Densely cross linked 2 part varnish is by nature more brittle. Its molecular structure is so tight that moisture trapped beneath it can not escape as vapor and then migrates and lifts the varnish as it attempts to escape. That is why people make little bottles of each part. to attend to spot repairs as soon as possible. The varnish is hard when completely catalyzed and is harder to sand. This is the nature of the product. Densely cross-linked molecules are by nature less subject to attack by UV , chems or once catalyzed, solvents. We use a graduated temperature heat gun to remove sections that need it. Not so hot the damage other coatings and not so cool to slow the job down. Its necessary to remember that a strong hard structure is not a soft flexible structure. you cant have both. Wood expands and contracts with temperature and moisture. So a build up of flexible epoxy , then traditional varnish and then 2 part can work because it combines the flexible property of certain epoxies and the more flexible less dense chemistry of varnish to absorb expansion and contraction of the substrate. The caveat is that the single part be fully cured before experimenting with various 2 part formulations.

  3. 2 part finishes should never be applied directly to bare wood. If you do the finish will get Smokey and haze up after a season. For instance awlgrips awlbrite recommends using a few build up coats of 3131. Also building up with a super thin 2part finish is just foolish. You should build up with a one part varnish, and overcoat with a coat or two of 2part. If you do build up with a one part varnish like Epifanes, you will need to let it sit for a week or more to truly harden up… otherwise the 2part will eat into it. If you buildup with a quicker drying finish like 3131 you could over coat sooner.

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